San Fran: A Seaplane Adventure
Earlier this year in Chicago, a couple of my photos from the Hancock Observatory got noticed by a local helicopter tour company on Twitter, and they generously offered to take me out in exchange for a set of shots. It was an unexpected and welcome surprise to the first month in America. Sadly the only available time was the day I was due to leave for San Francisco with my non-refundable Amtrak train ticket, so we had to pass, but it made me think!
My interest in Aerial photography peaked when I saw photographer Jason Hawke's work over London, he is a phenomenal aerial photographer, if you've seen an advert of the UK from above, he probably shot it. Add to that my interest in Architectural photography it was inevitable I was going to give it a try at some point, which leads us right back to San Francisco.
The San Francisco coastline is a veritable fest of beauty for a photographer, from the financial district to the Gate, Marin County and of course the islands that sit in the bay itself. The city lends well to fly overs and tour companies. Initially I set about trying to find a helicopter company that would do "doors off" (a helicopter flight with no doors so the photographer can lean out unrestricted of glass) and also wouldn't mind a blog written about the experience, that wasn't to be and interest was met with "sniffy" replies. While I was searching around for another company, my girlfriend had started researching and came across a Seaplane company called: Seaplane Adventures. Not being sure if it would be possible to shoot from a plane I sent them an email and hit the web for more details.
Aaron the company director promptly got in touch, answering all questions I had. It would seem that seaplanes (and many light aircraft) are extremely good for Aerial Photography especially in the Cessna 172 which they had. The reasons why planes and specifically the seaplane is so suited to this photography is:
1/ the plane glides and goes slower.
2/ there are less vibrations and air drag while window open than in a helicopter.
3/ Cost. Chartering a small plane is easily half that of a helicopter (a bonus when travelling on a budget).
4/ it's more fun landing and taking off on water!
We booked it!
I had asked for a late afternoon slot as figured it would be the best light for the city shots, and will result in more interesting shadows along the coastline. Not going to lie I was nervous, I have no problems with flying but the plane was small, and I would be sticking my head most of the time out a window. The fear factor of the unknown of taking off (and landing) on water was somewhat on my mind also. Aaron went through all the safety directions, strapped us in and off we went. A few minutes of floating on the water, then within seconds we were in the air, surprisingly smooth, easy and comfortable. Up to altitude, level off and then open the window, done. Now to stick my head and camera out and fire off some shots, I have never held onto my camera so hard in my life.
In theory the art of aerial photography is pretty easy, high ISO and a fast shutter speed, aim and press the button. In reality it's very different, for starters the wind hits you hard at first and pulls the camera around, add to the fact that as you are composing the shot the plane may drop on the wind so you find you miss it. In an ideal world I would have a gyro to steady the camera, this piece of equipment is also often used in helicopter photography. But I don't so; it's all a bit trial and error, shoot and hope.
Having a really clear idea of what one wants so can communicate with pilot is key, although for this time I was happy with everything Aaron suggested as my focus was the shoreline of San Francisco and the few times I asked to maneuver back around he did so.
I rapidly found that I preferred portraits over landscapes, due to height of buildings an angles shooting them at from the plane. Sadly a lot of my images were soft or out of focus, however largely the ones I wanted were spot on. Aerial photography is a hell of a challenge, and I defiantly learned a lot in one flight and what I would do different next time. I am not sure I would want to do a doors off helicopter, those guys have guts, the seaplane felt safe, I was able to make safe lens changes too which is notoriously tricky in a helicopter. The only real disadvantage of the plane from what I can tell is that it can't hover over a desired target, and in the case of a seaplane night photography isn't possible as the plane cannot land on water in the dark (understandably).
I cannot recommend Seaplane Adventures enough; it was a thoroughly professional and a wonderful experience. Aaron also provided a superb, comprehensive commentary over every site/landscape we flew over, although with my head mostly out the window I missed most of it! Even if you don't want to charter and just want to do a site seeing tour, this is the company for you. It's unique, great fun and for your dollar/pound, a worth every penny/cent.
As for the landing on water........ you will have to go to find out.
Kerouac and The Beat Museum Review
Two years ago I met my girlfriend, shortly after that she introduced me to Charles Bukowski. I am somewhat ashamed to say my American literature was, at best "limited", at school we were fed copious amounts of Shakespeare and the likes of Pride and Prejudice until we were all utterly sick of reading, my only escape from that was my love of a good Stephen King novel! The only American "classic" I remember reading in that class and unsurprisingly loving was "To Kill a Mockingbird", of which large preportion of the time was dedicated to watching the film adaptation then discussing it till we were blue in the face. So when I read Bukowski's "Ham on Rye" two years ago it was as if a whole new world had opened up to me.
The recommendations kept coming and I kept reading, the old drunk Bukowski led me to Fante, who in turn led me to Faulkner, who led me to the French writers Camu and Sarte. All of these fantastic writers were all influenced by each other in some capacity (mostly in writing styes and honesty) and along the way I read Kerouac's "On the Road" which meant I was then hooked on the "Beat Generation" and especially Jack Kerouac and William S. Burroughs which brings us up to San Francisco's The Beat Museum:
My interest in Kerouac only increased more when we went to see the original 120 ft scroll of his "On the Road" book and exhibition around it at the British Library, so 2013 and with us on the road, travelling across country and visiting San Francisco we sought out the Kerouac hot spots.
"The Beat Museum" is located in the North Beach district of San Francisco which is also a moments walk from Telegraph Hill and hosts a large Italian contingent, Jack never actually lived in this district as such or San Francisco apart from crashing on various couches and the odd hotel however arguably North Beach is to the "Beats" as Liverpool is to The Beatles and It is here that you will find the "Beat museum" founded by Jerry Cimino, it is a beautiful bookshop full of the delights of The Beats, posters, early editions, new editions, bathtubs full of bargains and out the back sits the museum itself.
Jerry will sell you a ticket ($8) and send you on your way through the turnstiles, where you will read the history of how the Beat Generation started, the importance of Neal Cassady, or take a load off in the cinema and watch a film about Kerouac and his sad self destruction. The first floor houses a collection of first editions, photo memorabilia, Jacks jacket and segments on other prominent writers such as Burroughs and Ginsberg and his infamous "Howl". It's a delightful museum set up by people who clearly adore this part of literature history, I hope that it long continues and more donations are submitted over time. Back downstairs and the pièce de résistance, a '49 Hudson car, not actually Jacks car for as Jerry says on the website "there is no tangible record of it, it could be in a car collection or rusting away in some junkyard in Mexico". However here is the Hudson that featured in the "On the Road" movie, kindly donated by Walter Salles with dirt and all from the making of. It's a wonderful story of how the Museum was presented with it read it here, or ask Jerry to tell you all about it while he's showing you photos of him at the premiere! Guaranteed he will also end up showing you and selling you early editions you can't resist too, like us as we ended up with a 1958 first edition of Kerouac's "the Subterraneans" and a few other books, and budget allowing, at the end of this trip I have my eye on an first edition of a British "On the Road"....Jerry is a charmer and clearly can spot fans a mile off!
I cannot recommend a trip to the Beat Museum enough, if not just for Jerry, but because you will be stepping in the footsteps of the authors and poets that shaped and changed a generation, created history, wrote their experiences through their eyes and well, who can't fall in love with a museum that's set up like that.
Across the road from the Beat Museum is the City Lights bookshop/publisher, this was founded in 1953 and was a key part in the "Beats" history, it published Ginsberg's "Howl" which caused national controversy and led to a court case about the poem/book and it's depictions of drug use and homosexuality. You can read all about this in The Beat Museum and see early editions or walk the floors of the bookshop in the store itself and is well worth doing so.
